Try a Soothing Soak in Historic Waters at South Dakota's Moccasin Springs Natural Mineral Spa 

"Magic" doesn't appear on the periodic table. But a potent blend of sodium, magnesium, potassium and other minerals infuses the pools at Moccasin Springs Natural Mineral Spa in Hot Springs with an otherworldly essence—or so it feels, anyway.

Owner Kara Hagen spent five years building the spa atop the ragged ruins of the 1890 Hot Springs Hotel and bathhouse. The property closed in 1963 and moldered for decades until Hagen bought it in 2014 with a vision for its resurrection.

After years of construction, visitors are once again finding soothing soaks in these historic waters. New juxtaposes comfortably with old, the original architecture declaring itself everywhere. The past also echoes in the name, Moccasin Springs, which Hagen restored to honor those who came before. Once used by Native Americans, the spa's smaller pool takes the shape of a traditional shoe carved into red sandstone.

Earth-warmed waters, cherished over generations for their reputed healing properties, now anchor the spa's therapeutic wellness experiences. In addition to soaking, visitors can book massage therapy, aromatherapy, Reiki and other services.

An on-site eatery, Buffalo Dreamer, serves lunch at a walk-up window from a menu that's generally gluten-free, organic and locally produced. Don't worry about the signature Dreamer Burger being too heavy for a spa day—the portion is just right, with a swoop of creamy Dreamer Sauce.

A $27 pass (best to reserve in advance) grants visitors three hours of access to six pools, which range in temperature from about 80 to 102 degrees. Unlike many natural springs, these waters carry a sweetish scent and are silky to the touch.

The explanation for that is probably scientific. But as you float, it feels more like alchemy.

Where to Eat

Hjem A.M., Custer

Farm-style tables and friendly service set the stage for a wake-up delight at Hjem A.M., but get there early or expect a wait. If you order Custer's Last Meal, you'll get multiple meats, plus eggs, roasted garlic potatoes and more. The Morning Walleye includes potato-bacon hash with a sunny-side up egg. Or order smoked salmon deviled eggs. For breakfast. You're welcome.

The Southern Hills Mercantile and Taproom, Hot Springs

Local ingredients star on a changing, sophisticated menu in this bar-market mash-up. Browse the extensive local craft beer and wine list, order a bite, then shop the selection of South Dakota-made goods. Also on tap: nonalcoholic sips from locally made Scobi Kombucha. Sample a flight of signature flavors; lavender, brewed with chamomile and calendula petals, is a standout.

Skogen Kitchen, Custer

The tuna tostada appetizer tastes coastal. Not a surprise, considering owners Joseph and Eliza Raney relocated from Southern California to create this chef-driven gem. The butternut squash soup and lobster cavatelli arrive next—complex but comforting. On the coveted side patio, heaters and throw blankets take the edge off the chill.

Where to Stay

Hotel Alex Johnson, Rapid City

Artwork honoring the area's Lakota heritage fills this 1927 downtown landmark. (Construction began one day before the work started on Mount Rushmore, 30 minutes away.) Now a Hilton property, the hotel features comfortable rooms atop a sumptuous Western lobby—think heavy woodwork, rich leathers, light taxidermy and an assertive hearth.

Black Hills Bungalows, Custer

Just outside Custer State Park, find secluded accommodations for parties of different sizes in eight distinct cabins. Plush furniture and elegant, neutral decor lend polish to all units, while live-edge wooden countertops and tree-trunk pillars keep things charmingly rustic. The Cathedral Spires serve as backdrop to a fishing pond.